Means and method of forming pointed corners



July 10, 1934. E. B. ROBY El AL 1,965,968

MEANS AND METHOD OF FORMING POINTED CORNERS Filed July 5, 1933 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 Z'a a, 320$ 26' 155%; 0. Z! erwaod 76- ATTORNEY July 10, 1934. as. ROBY ET AL MEANS AND METHOD OF FORMING POINTED CORNERS Filed July 5, l .5 Sheets-Sheet 2 13 5- 11v VENTORS Eda/0rd $.Bo

i l wad Howard 6. [Jude A TTORNEY Patented July 10, 1934 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE MEANS AND METHOD OF FORMING POINTED CORNERS tion of New York Application July 5, 1933, Serial No. 679,024

12 Claims.

This invention relates to means and methods of forming pointed corners, and more particularly pointed corners in garments having two or more plies of material, such as collars, cuffs,

6 bands, lapels, flaps and kindred products.

Among the principal objects which the present invention has in view are: to provide a method wherein the corners of garments may be trimmed and turned; to eliminate excess material appearing at the corners of garments after the several plies of material have been sewn together; to provide a method to allow turning the garment right side out after the excess material has been trimmed; to utilize machine operation to efiect the result; to insure properly shaped corners in conjunction with the elimination of the excess material; to provide a method which may be performed with rapidity; to secure simplicity in the steps of the method and operations performed on the article; and to obtain other advantages and results as may be brought out in the following description.

Drawings Figure 1 is an elevation of an apparatus by which steps of my improved method may be performed.

Figure 2 is a plan of the cutting and pressure means shown as taken on line 2-2 of Figure 1.

Figure 3 is a plan of the fixed die on which the garment is held during the several operations, shown as taken on the line 3-3 of Figure 1.

Figure 4 is a bottom plan of the cutters, pressure die and gripper shown as taken on the line 4-4 of Figure 1.

Figure 5 is a longitudinal sectional view of part of the apparatus and showing the plunger, cutters, gripper and pressure die.

Figure 6 is a front elevation of the apparatus and showing the several parts of the present invention by which the steps of the method are performed.

Figures '7, 8, 9 and 10 are elevations in part of the apparatus and similar to Figure 1, showing the progressive steps of the method, and

Figures 11, 12 and 13 are fragmentary portions of the garment in respective stages of the work performed as shown in Figures '7, 8, 9 and 10.

Description 17 furthermore provides a bed 20 positioned below and away from the plunger and adapted to support a fixed die 21. The plunger carries a pressure die 22, said die constituting a gripper 23 and centrally positioned with respect to the die, a pair of cutters 24 to the rear of said gripper and a pointed member or stylus 25 suitably attached to the forward part of the pressure die, the parts being arranged with the pressure die overlying a portion of the fixed die and adapted to be brought down upon the same.

As here shown, operation of the pressure die 22 and its various members is obtained by means of a treadle 26 connected by a link 27 to a first class lever 28, an intermediate part of which engages the upper end of the plunger 19. Link 27 attaches to one end of this lever 28, Whereas the other end is fulcrumed as at 29 in a bracket 30 forming part of the head 18 of the apparatus.

Preferably lever'28 provides a long arm between the plunger 19 and the connection with link 27, and provides a short arm between the plunger and the fulcrum 29, so that a moderate pressure exerted by the operator may apply a considerable pressure to the plunger and the pressure die 22. To insure return of the plunger 19 to its uppermost position and out of engagement with the work performed, a strong coil spring 31 is suitably attached at one end to the standard 17 and its other end fastened to the treadle 26.

In the head 18 the plunger 19 as shown extends with full diameter only part way down, below which it is reduced in diameter forming a downwardly facing shoulder 32, and at said reduced portion a spring 33 engages said shoulder 32. Spring 33 exerts pressure oppositely to the pressure exerted by the spring 31 when the plunger is operated. The lower end of the reduced portion of the plunger is threaded as at 34 and at this end the pressure die and its component parts are attached.

The fixed die 21 in the present showing provides an upper flat surface which slopes forwardly downward and has its edge shaped to cooperate with the cutters 24 so as to shear material projecting over the rear edges of said die. The die is shown pointed toward the rear, thus providing divergent edges, and it is these edges which cooperate with the cutters, it being noted that the intersection of said edges is an uppermost point of the die as well as a point most rearward of the die.

The cutters 24 are upright blades disposed at an angle to each other equal to the projected angle of the diverging rear edges of the fixed die 21 w ereby lowering the cutters will cause them to have a shearing contact with the said edges of the lower or fixed die. The edges of the cutters which pass the cutting edges of the fixed die are preferably horizontal so the cutting action operates progressively from the rear and uppermost point of the fixed die.

It will be appreciated that when the cutters 24 are in operation, a certain amount of vibration takes place during the lowering and raising of the plunger 19. In order to overcome the vibration, we have secured to the cutters a plate 35 of substantially the same angular disposition as the cutters and secured to the pressure die by the same bolts as hold the cutters thereto. It is also preferable that the plate extend downwardly and beyond the cutters so as to act as a guard during cutting operation. Adjacent the lower end of the plate is provided a stud 36 to which one end of a spring 3'? is made fast, the other end of said spring being secured to the standard 17. As the plunger and the pressure die are in operation, the spring 37 will tend to keep the pressure die with cutters 24 in taut position, thereby minimizing forward movement of the pressure die and cutters.

The pointed instrument or stylus 25 is attached to the forward end of the pressure die 22 by any suitable means, which in the present showing is a horizontally disposed U-shaped clip 38 made fast to the die by a bolt 39. The supporting bracket 40 for the stylus projects upwardly and away from the apparatus as clearly shown in Figures 1, '7, 8, 9 and 10. The lower end of the bracket is secured by the clip 38 whereas the upper end is shaped to provide a socket for reception of the upper end. of the stylus with bolts or other suitable means for retaining the stylus in the socket at properly adjusted elevation. The lower extremity of said stylus is preferably about opposite the gripper 23.

Pivoted to the bed 20 or other part of the apparatus is a rack 41 which is here shown as comprising a yoke 42, the arms of which pass to opposite sides of the bed and at the lower part of which projects an offsetting portion 43, the outer end of which in turn carries a prong 44. The prong 44 is substantially parallel to the plane of the yoke 41 and consequently when the yoke swings to its lowermost position, at which time it stands substantially vertically, the prong 44 also stands substantially vertically. The yoke, because of engagement with the web of the bed 20 is prevented from swinging further in a direction toward the standard 1'7 than the position illustrated in Figure 1.

Furthermore, the parts are so related that with the yoke 42 swung to this lowermost and stopped position, the upper end of the prong 44 is alined with the lower end of the stylus 25.

The relationship of parts is such that the rack '41 may swing upwardly and inwardly to an inclined position with its end portion projecting between the die 21 and gripper 23. With the prong thus positioned, the stylus when lowered, does not make contact with the prong.

The collar or other garment 45 being operated upon is applied to the prong 44 while in lowered position, the prong being shaped to substantially fit within the corner of the garment and hold the corner of the garment distended. At this stage of the procedure, the garment is wrong-side out, and the edges 46 of the material stand outwardly from the lines of stitching 4'7, 4'7 forming the seam. With the prong 44 now inserted between the die 21 and gripper 23, the portion of edges 46 of the garment between the apex thereof and the crossing of the lines of stitching 47, 47 projects beyond the cutting edge of the die 21.

By manipulating the treadle 26, gripper 23 is depressed and raised edges 48 thereon next to the angular cutting edge of the fixed die grip the material close to the cutting edge. Preferably the prong 44 is thin enough and the raised edges thick enough to enable the said raised edges to grip the material with respect to the fixed die 21 without being held away from the fixed die by the inclusion of the prong. Further depression or the treadle thereupon lowers the blades 24 past the cutting edge of the fixed die, as shown in Figure 9 and thereupon cuts the material beyond intersection of the lines or stitching in conformity with the angle of the blades, as shown in Figure 12.

In order to accommodate this further depression of the blades as the gripper 23 remains stationary upon the material and fixed die 21, said gripper is mounted slidably in the plunger 19 and spring pressed to its lowermost position so that the spring will permit yielding when the gripper can move no further. Suitable means, such as the slot and pin construction shown in Figure 5 retain the gripper mounted in the plunger and prevent it from rotation therein.

Upon completion of the cutting operation above described, the treadle 26 is released and the plunger 19 rises under influence of spring 33, thereby releasing the garment. The rack 41 is now swung to its lowermost position with the point of the prong 44 alined beneath the point of stylus 25 and with the garment still wrongside out on said prong. The treadle 26 is now depressed again, and this time the stylus 25 engages the point of the prong 44 as shown in Figure 10 with a part of the garment engaged therebetween. The operator then pulls the garment upwardly, thereby turning it right-side out, whereupon it appears as shown in Figure 13. The treadle is then released, the garment removed from the stylus 25, and the operation repeated with another garment.

We claim:

1. An apparatus as characterized providing garment receiving and distending means, a cutter having portions receiving said means therebetween for trimming said garment while upon said means.

2. An apparatus as characterized providing a die for receiving a portion of a garment thereon, a cutter cooperating with said die for trimming said garment while upon said die, and means in sertable into the garment within the bounds cut by said die and cutter for further operation thereon after the trimming.

3. An apparatus as characterized providing a movable prong for receiving a portion of a garment, a cutter, and means movably mounting said prong and guiding the same between cutting portions of the cutter for positioning the garment in the path of movement of the cutter for trimming said garment while upon said prong.

4. An apparatus as characterized providing a cutter, and a swinging rack having a prong for receiving a portion of a garment, said prong being insertable between portions of said cutter for trimming said garment while upon said prong.

5. An apparatus as characterized providing a movable prong for receiving a portion of a garment, a cutter for trimming said garment while upon said prong, and means for receiving the garment for further operation thereon after the trimming, said prong being movably positioned between portions of said cutter during the trimming operation and substantially alined with said means thereafter preparatory to said further operation.

6. An apparatus as characterized providing a movable prong for receiving a portion of a garment, a cutter for trimming said garment while upon said prong, and a stylus for receiving the garment for further operation thereon after the trimming, said prong being movably positioned between portions of said cutter during the trimming operation and substantially alined with said stylus thereafter preparatory to said further operation.

7. An apparatus as characterized providing a cutter, and a swinging rack having a prong for receiving a portion of a garment, said prong being insertable between portions of said cutter for trimming said garment while upon said prong, and means for receiving the garment for further operation thereon after the trimming, said prong being mounted to swing into one position between portions of said cutter during the trimming operation and mounted to swing to another position substantially alined with said means thereafter preparatory to said further operation.

8. An apparatus as characterized providing a cutter, and a swinging rack having a prong for receiving a portion of a garment, said prong being insertable between portions of said cutter for trimming said garment while upon said prong, and a stylus for receiving the garment for further operation thereon after the trimming, said prong being mounted to swing into one position between portions of said cutter during the trimming operation and mounted to swing to another position substantially alined with said stylus thereafter preparatory to said further operation.

9. An apparatus as characterized comprising a standard having a base and a head, said head being provided with a plunger, a pressure die and a gripper carried by said plunger, a cutter also carried by the lower end of said plunger, a bed on said standard having a fixed die underlying said plunger and gripper, and movable means on said bed for receiving a portion of a garment and movable therewith to rest on the fixed die, and the base providing other means for operating the said plunger to bring the pressure die downwardly to engage the portion of the said garment and to further depress the cutter while the gripper engages the garment whereby said cutter will trim the garment and the gripper will hold the garment taut during the trimming operation.

10. The herein described method of forming pointed corners on garments comprising applying the corner of the garment on a prong, introducing said prong and associated part of the garment between a die and gripper, and trimming said corner while on said prong and while gripped.

11. The herein described method of forming pointed corners on garments comprising applying the corner of the garment upon a prong, trimming said corner on said prong, and removing the garment from the prong by turning the other side out.

12. The herein described method of forming pointed corners on garments comprising applying the corner of the garment upon a prong, gripping said garment while on said prong, trimming said corner on said prong, and removing the garment from the prong by turning the garment the other side out.

EDWARD B. ROBY. HOWARD C. UNDERWOOD. 

